NEVADO DEL TOLIMA: THE GIANT OF THE CENTRAL CORDILLERA
In this post, we will share our first-hand experience climbing Nevado del Tolima. We will also provide key recommendations so you can thoroughly enjoy this high-altitude adventure and avoid making the same mistakes we did.
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IN THIS POST, YOU WILL FIND THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
- Video of the Nevado del Tolima Expedition Route
- How to Get to Nevado del Tolima
- Route Guide to the Nevado del Tolima Summit
- Accommodation Near Nevado del Tolima
- Final Recommendations and Safety Checklist
[Leer este post en Versión en Español 🇨🇴]
NEVADO DEL TOLIMA FUN FACTS
Nevado del Tolima—also historically known as Dulima or Volcan Nevado del Tolima—is one of the most prominent active stratovolcanoes and peaks of the Central Andes range in Colombia, reaching an altitude of 5,215 meters above sea level (17,110 feet).
Its ancient indigenous name, Dulima, dates back over 400 years to the Spanish conquest era. Legend tells of a powerful female shaman and priestess named Ibanasca, leader of the Dulima tribe, who fiercely defended her ancestral land. She was eventually captured by the conquistadors, accused of witchcraft, and sentenced to burn at the stake 🧙♀️.
As the fire grew, her tribe did not witness her burn. Instead, a messenger from the Fire God covered her to purify her soul, allowing her spirit to transcend into the Goddess of the Snows. Today, she slumbers eternally in the depths of Nevado del Tolima, where the ancient wise spirits rest.
[Source: ibanasca]
VIDEO OF OUR EXPEDITION TO NEVADO DEL TOLIMA
Below is a short Nevado del Tolima video showing some of the most breathtaking high-mountain scenery you will encounter along this technical route in the Colombian Coffee Axis.
NEVADO DEL TOLIMA TOUR PRICES
Group departures typically operate on weekends. Please keep in mind that you should book your spot at least 1 month in advance. If you are traveling with your own group of friends, you can also opt for a customized private expedition.
MANDATORY SAFETY RECOMMENDATION: By order of National Parks Naturales de Colombia, entering the park without a certified mountain guide is strictly prohibited due to recent safety incidents involving lost hikers. Make sure your tour agency has all legal documentation and a valid National Parks permit.
If you want more information about this tour or would like to reserve your spot, you can click here to message us via WhatsApp.
HOW TO GET TO NEVADO DEL TOLIMA
To start the trek up Nevado del Tolima, you can access the national park either from the municipality of Salento (Quindío) or from Anzoátegui (Tolima).
The route we selected for this expedition started from Salento, Quindío.
Once in Salento, head to the main town square (Plaza de Bolívar) ⛪️ where you will board the traditional public Willys jeeps bound for the Cocora Valley (Valle del Cocora). The drive takes about 20 minutes. I must confess that once we set foot in the Cocora Valley, we felt a bit intimidated by the massive physical challenge ahead 😅.
ROUTE GUIDE TO THE NEVADO DEL TOLIMA SUMMIT
The first mountain farms (fincas) providing rustic lodging services are located 12 and 14 kilometers (7.4 to 8.6 miles) away from the starting trail. Out of this distance, a demanding 8-kilometer stretch consists of an intense uphill climb with an average inclination of 60%.
Route Map from Cocora Valley to Arenales High Camp
➡️ DAY 1: From Cocora Valley to the Páramo
We started our trek at 6:30 AM. Because we were carrying heavy technical mountaineering gear, we hired pack mules 🐴. After walking for about 10 minutes, we passed through the official National Parks ranger checkpoint.
We continued along the trail, leaving the towering wax palms behind as we entered the dense Andean cloud forest. We crossed several suspension bridges and passed near the "Casa de los Colibríes" (Hummingbird House), which is currently closed to the public.
📍 ESTRELLA DE AGUA
Approximately 9 kilometers (5.5 miles) from the Cocora Valley, we reached Estrella de Agua. The ascent to this point was complex; the trail has very steep sections, and since it had rained heavily the previous days, we encountered deep mud.
🚫🏕 Important Warning: Estrella de Agua no longer provides lodging or camping services. Camping in the surrounding areas is strictly prohibited by park regulations.
RECOMMENDATION: If you do not have previous high-altitude mountaineering experience, proper physical conditioning, technical gear, or a specialized guide, you should only hike up to Estrella de Agua. Beyond this point, the difficulty spikes drastically with 60% inclines for another 8 kilometers before reaching the next shelter.
After leaving Estrella de Agua behind, we faced a grueling 4-kilometer climb through the forest before the landscape opened up to reveal the stunning beauty of the páramo (high-altitude alpine moorland).
Next, we hiked across the Valle de los Perdidos (Valley of the Lost). Hiking through this area after dark is highly discouraged because heavy fog can completely disorient you. We heard stories of trekkers who had to spend the night unsheltered here, which is extremely dangerous due to freezing temperatures that can quickly cause hypothermia.
After 2 hours of trekking through the valley, we finally spotted the first traditional mountain farm.
ACCOMMODATION NEAR NEVADO DEL TOLIMA
Upon arriving at the mountain farm where we would spend the night, the hosts welcomed us with hot local coffee ☕️, which brought us back to life. We were freezing, mainly because we hiked for almost 2 hours under the rain without gloves (we made the mistake of leaving them inside the main duffel bag carried by the mules 😅).
I immediately changed my boots. Even though they were waterproof, they were damp on the outside, and I worried since they were the ones I needed for summit day. Fortunately, the owner let us carefully dry them next to the wood-burning kitchen stove.
At these traditional high-mountain farms, you can find the following basic services (reference prices):
- Shared Dorm Room 🛌: $45,000 COP per person.
- Camping Zone 🏕: $20,000 COP.
- Lunch / Dinner 🍛: $25,000 COP.
- Breakfast 🥟: $15,000 COP.
The prices mentioned above are approximate and may vary depending on the season.
➡️ DAY 2: From Finca La Playa to Arenales High Camp
The next day, we moved up to the high camp at Arenales. Fortunately, my summit boots had dried well, so I packed them away in my backpack and wore my lighter trail shoes for this intermediate climb.
The trek from Finca La Playa to Arenales is about 7 kilometers (4.3 miles), but you go from 3,800 meters up to 4,500 meters (14,760 feet). You can just imagine the steepness of those slopes! 😅
When we arrived at Arenales, we set up our tents under freezing winds. Keep in mind that this high camp has no water sources nearby, so you must carry enough water from the points designated by your guides.
🚮 Leave No Trace: Please pack out absolutely all your trash. It is truly heartbreaking to see plastic bottles abandoned in such a fragile and pristine ecosystem. 🥲
We ate a light dinner and were asleep by 8:00 PM, ready for the early morning summit push.
➡️ DAY 3: The Summit Push to Nevado del Tolima 🗻
To reach the peak of Nevado del Tolima from Arenales, we divided the climb into three key technical sections:
1. THE VOLCANIC SAND SECTION
We woke up very early to prepare breakfast, hydrate, and gear up with our harness, helmet, headlamp, and crampons packed. We waited for the rain to ease before heading out. The initial terrain consists of loose volcanic sand and ash; as you gain altitude, frost begins to cover the ground. Passing through the "Helipuerto" sector, we collected fresh water from a small stream.
Photo by: @ssc_roll
Pro-Tip: At this point, my rechargeable headlamp failed because extreme cold temperatures drain lithium batteries significantly faster. I had to hike in the middle of the group to use my teammates' light until dawn broke.
2. THE ROCK SCRAMBLE SECTION
Next, we reached the rocky ridge. Due to the humidity, the rock surface was very slick and slippery. Safety here is paramount: our guide secured the main rope to fixed bolts on the wall, and we clipped in using our carabiners and safety lanyards on our harnesses.
In this section, one of our teammates made the mistake of carrying his ice axe horizontally on the outside of his pack while holding hiking poles in his hand. While trying to clear a ledge, the ice axe got jammed against the rock, causing him to lose balance. Fortunately, our rope team system worked perfectly, and it was just a minor scare.
⚠️ SAFETY TIP: Before starting the rock scramble, collapse your trekking poles and secure them inside your pack, and make sure your ice axe is mounted vertically. You need both hands completely free to grip the rock safely.
3. THE GLACIER SECTION (SNOW)
Upon reaching the glacier's edge, we strapped on our crampons, roped up into a formal rope team under our guide's instructions, and began the glacier progression. This is the most physically demanding part due to the altitude. It is the perfect time to keep chocolates or energy gels in your jacket pockets to snack on the move without stopping.
Photo by: @piri487
Halfway up, one of our friend's crampons came loose, but the guide quickly fixed it on the spot. After overcoming the final steep slopes, we stood on the summit! The view from the top is worth every drop of sweat.
Photo by: @jorge_leyton79
📌 QUICK SUMMIT CHECKLIST:
- Waterproof mountaineering boots (reserved exclusively for summit day).
- Thermal and waterproof gloves, a reliable headlamp (with extra alkaline batteries), UV-protection sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen.
- Double-check your technical gear: properly adjusted crampons, ice axe, helmet, and harness.
After celebrating at the top, we descended to Arenales high camp around 10:00 AM, packed up our camp, and headed down at 12:00 PM to Finca La Playa to rest.
➡️ DAY 4: Heading Back to Cocora Valley
The following day, we began the final descent back to the Cocora Valley. With accumulated fatigue in our legs, we decided to send our heavy packs down on the mules. It was the best decision: the trails were incredibly slippery due to recent rains, and trekking light saved us from several bad falls.
And that concludes this spectacular journey to the heart of Los Nevados National Natural Park!
🎒 FINAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR YOUR ADVENTURE
To ensure you enjoy Nevado del Tolima to the fullest and stay safe, check out this quick list before packing your bags:
- 🚨 Mandatory Guide Regulation: Due to environmental protection laws and a high rate of lost hikers, solo trekking is no longer allowed. All visitors must enter with a certified mountain guide. Avoid fines and support local authorized agencies. If you need help arranging this, you can check out our trusted partner's tour here.
- 🧤 Keep Technical Gear Accessible: Don't repeat our mistake; keep your waterproof gloves and a rain shell inside your daypack. If it starts pouring in the páramo, the mules will be far ahead, and you won't be able to access your dry clothes.
- 🔦 Headlamp with Spare Batteries: Extreme cold drains rechargeable lithium batteries very fast. Use a headlamp that takes traditional batteries and store the spares inside an inner, warm pocket close to your body.
- 🧗♂️ Hands-Free for Scrambling: Before reaching the technical rock passage, pack away your trekking poles and clip your ice axe vertically. You will need both hands free to grip the rock securely.
- 🍫 Pocket Snacks: Climbing a glacier burns double the energy. Keep snacks, chocolates, or nuts in your jacket pockets to eat on the move without needing to take off your backpack on the ice.
- 💧 Water Logistics: The high camp at Arenales has no water. Make sure to refill all your hydration bladders and bottles at the mountain farm before the final ascent.
- 🚯 Responsible Mountaineering: The páramo and glaciers are fragile ecosystems. Absolutely all trash you generate must return in your pack to Salento. Let's protect the home of the Goddess Dulima!
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The prices mentioned in this article are for reference only and are subject to change by local providers.